Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
